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About Anthony C. Dweck
Anthony C. Dweck FRSC, FLS, FRSPH.
Please see our web site for articles and other free data. www.dweckdata.com
Dweck has worked for Smith & Nephew, S.C. Johnson, Marks & Spencer, and Peter Black (now LF Beauty). In 1998 he formed Dweck Data in order to devote more time to the study of botanicals and their chemistry.
Past member of Council (1984-1986) Society of Cosmetic Scientists, Past President Society of Cosmetic Scientists (1996-1997), Past President Society of Cosmetic Scientists (2001 - 2002), Honorary Member of Society Cosmetic Scientists (awarded 2004), Technical Editor of the Personal Care Magazine (Asia Pacific 1999-2010) (Europe 2008-2010), Associate Editor International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2001-2003), Moderator and creator of the Formulators' Discussion Group (1998-2005), Member of the Scientific Advisory Committee of the CTPA (1992-1998). Member of the Advisory Board of Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine (1997-1998), Member of the Advisory Board of International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (since 2003), Member of the Editorial Scientific Advisory Panel of SPC Magazine (1997-2001), Member of the Editorial Scientific Advisory Board of SOFW Journal (1988 - 1999), Member of the LCLN (Ingredient Nomenclature) of the C.T.P.A. (1994-1998), Member of the IFSCC Monograph Review Committee (1997 - 1999), External Examiner for Society of Cosmetic Scientists (since 1991), Referee (reviewer) for International Journal of Cosmetic Science (since 1992), Chairman Sponsorship Committee of IFSCC Congress in 2002, Edinburgh (1998-2000), IFSCC listed conference speaker. Chairman of the SCS 50th Anniversary Book Committee, 1998. Joint Organiser of the Post Graduate Course in Cosmetic Science (1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2007), Council of Europe - Botanical Task Force (Committee of Experts) (appointed 1998). Consultant and expert witness (listed) to the Trading Standards Office
Author of over a hundred articles and papers on various aspects of the Cosmetic and Toiletry industry and numerous book chapters, Anthony is also a frequent lecturer on his favourite topic of botanicals/ medicinal plants and has presented over 80 papers at conferences all over the world. He was a regular organiser of the conference programme for PCIA (Personal Care Ingredients Asia) and the honorary organiser for the SCS Spring Symposium 13-15th May 2007 "the 100% Natural Conference" at Staverton Park, Northants.
The Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics and the Handbook of Natural Ingredients together now make up the revised Formulating Natural Cosmetics that was originally published by Allured. It is double the size of the original work and this explains the need to publish it in two volumes. These two volumes are suited to the creators of natural products be they marketing or technical. The price of the original volume was about £86, the price of both the new volumes together is £50. I am pleased that the size has doubled but the price has dropped.
The Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients is the last of the trilogy and aimed at the safety assessor or compliance officer. In addition to an overview of the material it also has the toxicological data. It replaces the originally published eBook but despite numerous attempts with format sizes it will not fit into a single volume at 1,200 or so pages.
It had been my intention (as shown on LinkedIn) to publish the mass of data that I had assembled and created over the course of 45 years in the personal care industry. The last and final step, probably the most difficult, will be to assemble the hundred plus published papers from the year 1979 onwards and pull them into one volume, together with the lectures and proceedings from eighty or so conferences.
Finally, to make available the software programme that I have been writing for the last twenty years to assess a cosmetic formulation and show the legal status around the world.
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The subjects are covered as follows:
Chapter 1 Fixed Oils
Chapter 2 Butters
Chapter 3 Waxes
Chapter 4 Saponins (Emulsifiers)
Chapter 5 Natural Emulsifiers
Chapter 6 Preservatives
Chapter 7 Minerals
Chapter 8 now on sale as Handbook of Natural Ingredients
Chapter 9 Essential Oils (Fragrance)
Chapter 10 Actives
Chapter 11 Isoflavones, Phytohormones and Phytosterols
Chapter 12 Anti-irritants
Chapter 13 Colour
Chapter 14 Marine Extracts and Marine Margin Plants
Chapter 15 Gemmotherapy
Chapter 16 Gums, Gellants, Bulking Agents and Thickeners
Chapter 17 Scrubs and Abrasives
Chapter 18 Legal Issues
This is an eBook, which means that if you have a Kindle reader it will index the whole book and make it totally searchable. If you have it on a laptop or PC then it is still able to be interrogated for answers.
There are about 2,600 entries, we have more than one entry for a number of plants materials because we have differentiated between the fixed oil, the essential oil, the root extract, the leaf extract or fruit because they have different chemistry and differing uses.
At over a thousand pages it is impossible to supply all the references and it is hoped that this will not detract from the value of the work.
The NOAEL (No Observable Adverse Effect Level) value is very rare and where such a figure does not exist I have used data and feedback from over 30,000 formulae of commercially launched products and any adverse feedback to create a virtual NOAEL figure that can be used to calculate out the margin of safety. The animal data, instrumental data, RIPT (Repeat Insult Patch Test) figures, and animal alternative test data have all been taken into consideration when producing this value.
Cosmetics and skin care are as much a craft as they are a science and there is no product if there is no flair, no innovation, and most of all no love. The blending of raw materials is more art than science and if you want the best product then it has to be crafted by a chemist who (like a good cook with the knowledge of herbs and spices from around the world) has an inner passion that stores away the texture, feel and performance of hundreds, if not thousands of materials.
Science failed us when the chemistry and composition of over two hundred fixed oils were examined to predict their feel on the skin. It was an interesting, intensive, time consuming but completely fruitless exercise and the best analytical tool was found to be touch.
There are some creative people, who believe that the best way to find a new product is to look at what is already on the market. Personally, “me too” is not good enough and copying another person’s work is not satisfying to the formulator, nor to the lazy marketer and only leaves the graphics department or studio with any real chance of creativity.
This book takes a totally different approach to new ideas and looks back in history at the myths, legends, old herbalists, folklore, ethnopharmacy, and plant names in the hope that it sparks a germ of an idea. It was the genius of Mary Quant who developed the first natural range “Special Recipes” (50 years ago) at a time when the number of commercially available natural extracts was at best five! What luck to be a newly qualified chemist assigned to that team.
The author has spent half a century collecting data, writing articles, publishing paper and giving lectures. There have been many occasions where specific projects have demanded an in-depth search of the library and data base. This book will share those thoughts and ideas and hopefully compliment the other books in this series.
Demons and Dragons, the Language of Flowers, the Doctrine of Signatures, Worts and Banes, Four Thieves’ Vinegar, Spring Tonics, the Wonder of Fruits, Rubefacients, Aphrodisiacs, Cellulitis and so much more will be revealed in these pages.
This volume will complement the Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics, adding new exciting ideas and concepts. It contains hundreds of new plants not mentioned in any other volume, especially fruits (that account for more than half of this new volume). Where a plant has appeared in a previous volume, then the section has been re-written to include new and interesting information. An alphabetical Latin name index has been added to the end of this volume to make finding the plants easier.